21 June 2004

Clerical collars


There is a lot of debate over the role of clerical collars. I recognize times when it is important to wear one; -if I'm on 'official business' where it is important that people can recognize that I am acting in the capacity of ordained Christian; a clear and obvious example being hospital visiting. It is also the case that it can be disconcerting or embarrassing for some people to be so clearly marked out as 'consorting' with a clergybeing. And there are also times where it seems to me that it is not really appropriate because I am just one of the crowd and being marked out seems to give signals that somehow by wearing it, I'm claiming something like moral high ground [like when I was harangued by a lesbian in a pub for nothing more than wearing a clerical collar]or some kind of priviledged treatment. So I'm both for and against and depends-on-the-circumstances... There's articles on the 'net, a history lesson from the Banner of Truth [far too prot an organisation for my liking]and radical conguency on church world-inteface, for example

As I'm on sabbatical, yesterday at church [as co-preacher and presider] was the first time I'd worn one for ages. I wore an ordinary button down shirt and put a press-stud wrap-around strip of plastic under the shirt collar, bow-tie style, if you like. And this put me in mind of why thoughts on how to develop the clerical collar further. In putting these thoughts down under creative commons I'm also making it hard for someone [including yours truly] to patent the ideas and make money out of them, since a patent would rely on the idea not having been publically disclosed. So here goes.

One of the difficulties I have with the things is that the shirts are expensive compared with what I normally pay [I sometimes feel unjustifiably so] and so I have been working on all sorts of alternatives. The least radical of which is trying to make the things fit under ordinary-shirt collars. If you've ever tried this you will realize that there can be problems. Many shirts sit lower on the neck than clerical shirts and so trying to insert the long piece of press-studded plastic described earlier can proove hard because it tends to force the shirt collar higer up on the neck than it is designed to be with inelegant results. Also the collar has to be thick enough [not so much of an issue in the 2000's but in the 80's.... and probably thin collars will return to fashion soon. The most notable difficulty in this arrangement comes with polo shirts which have collars that basically sit where your shoulders meet your neck and so the press-studded plastic strip is a write off, really: it pulls the collar up and exposes itself shamelessly, thus frightening the horses.

In offering these ideas I'm basically playing with the idea that the semiotic value of the thing is in the white 'flash' showing up at the throat. I was alerted to this by the way that I have on a number of occasions double checked a passer-by wearing something that gave a flash of white at their neck or just above their sternum. So the idea of 'clergybeing uniform', I contend, is adequately conveyed by this white flash [and who knows, in years to come the developments I mention here may allow some variation to the plain white 'badge'?]provided that on closer inspection it looks deliberate and not simply like a white vest under a shirt or whatever.

First idea then is to have a simple small piece of plastic or cloth or ceramic [go ahead ... experiment with materials] just wide enough to fit between the wings of whichever shirt-collar you're using and also give anchor points for attachment. It needs to be kept in place by cord or chain which is preferably adjustable so that it can be re-lengthened or ~shortened to sit in the right position and so to obtain the desired effect. Experience tells me that it works best if your 'white flash' is slightly curved in the fashion of a shallow "(" -but turned on it's side, smiley fashion. The inside of the curve is to fit against the neck; so facing up. The fastening cord/chain needs to be secured to the 'flash' towards the top on both ends; i.e nearer the top than the bottom, so that the thing can hang somewhat -falling onto the sternum, usually. This can work well with polo shirts.

The second idea is to use those lapel-badges with the backing to secure the pin -you know: the ones that look a bit like they could do duty as ear-lobe piercings. These can anchor the flash to the collar and if you choose suitable motifs can add to the decorative effect [I have used doves and ichthus symbols] by having them on the outside of the collar. The advantage of this arrangement is that the collar can be kept open on warm days.

The third idea is more a cool weather one and arises from the fact that I like polo-neck sweaters, and that should tip you off to what I am going to suggest: the flash should be about 5-7cms [that 3 inches] long, according to taste and secured to the neck of the roll-neck by the lapel badges. simple as that. Various other methods of securing the flash are possible but I suggest you play with threads, loops, velcro etc etc to your heart's content.

The fourth idea is also for a roll-neck using a more conventional plastic insert. simply cut two slashes into the roll-neck at the appropriate point [I suggest that you use some darning wool to tidy up the edges] so that you can insert the flash into the roll. The thing to be careful of here is to remember that the roll-neck often expands when you wear it, so cut the slashes about 2-3 cm apart [1-1.5 inches]. I;ve been thinking of adapting a ski style roll-neck and placing the clerical flash over the logo which is often off-centre .. could look stylish, maybe ....

9 comments:

Anonymous said...

If you're going to wear a clericals, go whole hog with it, and don't try to make it look mostly secular, and minimally clerical. A full round neckband collar shirt (pontiff 1) with a black rabat (2" step or full round) worn over a white cotton neckband dress shirt with cufflinks or barrel cuffs looks the smartest.

There's too much energy spent by clerics talking and thinking about this anyway. In my experience, most people I've met really don't care one way or the other--you appear like a priest whether you wear the outfit I described above, or a more "fully evolved" vestigial clerical shirt with a microscopic white tab.

Andii said...

Responding to that last comment. You're missing the points, I'm afraid. There are issues of cost, comfort and a sense of connectedness and style. SOme of us want to be able, from time to time, to mark out clergy status but in a way that makes sartorial connections with those among whom we minister. You should be aware of the semiotic value of some of the traditional approaches such as that you mention which has connotations which sit ill with many of us [power, abuse, remoteness etc].
Far too much time thinking about it? Maybe, but then it is about how pastoral care and potentially mission might be offered and accessed. If far too much time is spent on it then I feel that you have added to that by also offereing your preferred approach. I think all you have done here is air your own prejudices and anonymously too -doesn't look good.

George said...

I can see how following the "whole hog" approach would look very smart indeed, but only for very formal occasions. I have this whole outfit that you describe (rabat and dress shirt), but it's a bit much to be wearing all the time, or even most of the time around the parish--it's actually quite intimidating; my wife calls it "full blown clericals" (which is an adjective usually used to describe illnesses). I usually wear a black suit with a black slip in shirt. This is very comfortable, and everyone can identify me as a priest, but not as one who is vying for most impressively dressed. There have been times that I've been in a black cardy and shirt with the tab in my back pocket and people still knew I was a priest (some have asked where my church is), as there aren't many (other than goths) who go around wearing totally black outfits!

Rick said...

Yes, but where can you buy press-stud clerical collars now? The clerical outfitters have stopped supplying them. Since shirts with strips of cloth covering the buttons at the front became fashionable press-stud collars cannot be found. The clerical outfitters prefer you to sell you their ove-expensive shirts with separate or slip in collars.

Andii said...

Thanks Rick for the heads-up: I haven't looked for one of those for a good while now. I may have to step up the trying out of one or two other ideas...

Unknown said...

Hello everyone,I have been supplying the clergy "Collar Bands" with press studs both in Plastic and cotton for the past eight years. These collars suit all types of "Civilian" shirts i.e. from the good old M&S, but we also supply shirts to match! Please visit my eShop at www.b-and-h-shirts.com for further information. Alan Buckwell, B&H shirts and Collars Ltd

Unknown said...

Sorry just had a another thought for those of you looking for a decent comfortable "non" starch Cotton Collar, please also have a look at my eShop at www.b-and-h-shirts.com. Many thanks for you time, Alan Buckwell B&H shirts and Collars Ltd

Clergy Collar said...

Perhaps try our site. Thanks

Andii said...

@admin: which site would that be?

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